Before modern transportation made fresh vegetables available the year around, people in northern climes relied on what they could store to see them through the winter. For the most part, this consisted of root vegetables kept in a cool, dark cellar and fermented products like sauerkraut and pickles. This tasty, colorful, and nutritious salad makes fine use of such winter vegetables. Although the name винегрет (vinegret) is derived from the French vinaigrette this dish usually does not contain much, if any vinegar. In Russia, Ukraine, and among émigré communities, it is commonly served as a закуска (zakuska)—a bite of appetizer following a shot of vodka—but it certainly stands on its own as a side dish or even a light lunch. Like most traditional recipes, it is made in endless variations each of which claims to be the only authentic one. The consensus appears to be that beets, potatoes, carrots, and sauerkraut are essential with other ingredients, often onion, pickles, and/or peas, added at the whim of the cook. Although it is not traditional, I could envision putting a bit of turnip into the mix.
In the recipe that follows, I have declined to provide exact quantities, leaving it to the cook to decide how much to make. There should be roughly equal quantities of each diced root vegetable with sauerkraut to taste. I used minced red onion but not pickles; follow your own taste. I did sprinkle on some vinegar on the beets because I like the way its tang moderates the sweetness of the beets; again, let your palate be your guide. One caution: only use waxy “boiling” potatoes. Russet, or baking, potatoes fall apart when boiled or steam. The trick to this salad is to get each of the root vegetables to the same degree of doneness: tender but not mushy.
Ingredients | ||
Beets | ||
Carrots | ||
Potatoes | ||
Onion | ||
Sauerkraut | ||
Vegetable oil, sunflower is traditional | ||
Vinegar (optional) | ||
Salt and pepper to taste |
Method
Boil the beets, peeled or not according to your custom, for about an hour or until tender. Drain and cool. When cool enough to handle, peel if needed, and cut into 1-cm (½-inch) dice. Place the dice into a bowl, toss with a bit of oil, and vinegar if desired. Set aside at room temperature or in the refrigerator.
Peel the carrots and potatoes then cut them into 1-cm (½-inch) dice. When the beets are about half done, boil or steam the carrots and potatoes until just tender. Be careful not to overcook the potatoes. Collect the dice in a separate bowl, to keep the beets from making everything purple. Set aside at room temperature or in the refrigerator.
Mince the onion and drain the sauerkraut, rinsing it if you wish—I don’t. Fold the onion into the diced carrots and potatoes then lightly drizzle with oil. Gently stir in the beets and sauerkraut. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve at room temperature or slightly chilled.