Tourtière

In most French-Canadian homes, it is just not Christmas without tourtière, the iconic meat pie of Québec, traditionally served at Réveillon after midnight mass. Perhaps not surprisingly, there are as many recipes for tourtière as there are cooks who make it. And, of course, there are regional variations. In most of Québec and in New England, it is baked in a 9- or 10- inch pie plate with a bottom and top crust while in the Lac Saint-Jean and Saguenay regions of Québec it is usually a deep-dish casserole with only a top crust. The meat also varies, although pork is nearly always part of the mix, and sometimes the only meat. Beef and veal are often added as sometimes is chicken. Game—rabbit and venison—is popular along the Saguenay. The meat can be ground or diced. The filling usually includes a starch, commonly diced or shredded potatoes, although oatmeal or bread crumbs are also used, the last sometimes soaked in milk. The seasoning can be as simple as salt and pepper or include cloves, cinnamon, savory, and other herbs. My mother claims, evidence to the contrary notwithstanding, that her family is from Nova Scotia which, if it were so, might explain why her choice of seasonings was remarkably similar to those in haggis. (In fairness, her great-great-great-great-grandfather Daigle was Acadian.) This recipe is my own but it is near enough to my mother’s to evoke childhood memories but with a step back to the old country.

Note: this recipe will make a 9- or 10-inch pie, perhaps with a bit left over. Extra filling makes great sandwiches.

Ingredients

500 g (1 lb.) each ground beef and ground pork, preferably ground together

Vegetable oil, as needed

250 g (8 oz., 2 medium) onions, diced

2 or 3 cloves garlic, minced

350 g (12 oz., 2 medium) potatoes, shredded or diced

Water, as needed

15 ml (1 Tablespoon) ground cloves

5 ml (1 teaspoon) dried savory

1 ml (about ¼ teaspoon) ground cinnamon

Salt and pepper to taste

Pâte brisée for a two-crust pie

Method

Mix the meats together thoroughly and brown over medium-high heat in a heavy 12″ cast-iron skillet, working in batches if need be. Remove the meat to a strainer over a bowl and set aside to drain off excess fat.

Wipe out the skillet and add a bit of oil. Sauté the onions over medium-low heat until softened but not browned. Add the garlic and continue cooking for a couple more minutes. Put the diced or shredded potatoes into the skillet and add water to just cover. Cover, turn the heat to low, and simmer until the potatoes are partially done, about 10 to 15 minutes.

Return the meat to the skillet and combine with the potatoes and onions. Add water to barely cover. Sprinkle on the spices, herbs, and pepper and stir in. Simmer gently, uncovered, until most of the water has been absorbed or has evaporated. Add salt to taste along with additional spices and herbs if needed. Remove the meat mixture to dish and refrigerate, ideally overnight. Or, you can freeze it for later use.

When you are ready to assemble the pies, preheat the oven to 205°C (400°F). Roll out the pie dough into two rounds and line a pie plate with one of them. Fill with the meat and cover with the second crust. Crimp, trim, and decorate as you wish. Bake for about 45 minutes or until the crust is golden.